Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.